8 Fin Whales, 43 unidentified large rorquals, 32 Pilot Whales, 150 Common Dolphins, 330 Striped Dolphins, 1 Risso's Dolphin, 5 Harbour Porpoise, 3 unidentified dolphins. Other marine life included an unidentified shark. Seabirds included 2 Little Shearwaters, 191 Cory's shearwaters, 212 Great Shearwaters, 11 Sooty Shearwaters, 7 Manx Shearwaters, 2 Mediterranean Shearwaters, 14 Great Skuas, 1 Pomarine Skua, 1 Long-tailed Skua, 8 Arctic Skuas, 10 Sabine's Gulls, 2 Black Terns and 13 Storm Petrels. Migrants recorded on or from the ship included Sand Martin and 5 White Wagtails. In Spain we recorded 6 Griffon Vultures, Whinchat, Black Redstart, Common Redstart, Sardinian, Grasshopper and Cetti's Warblers, Pied Flycatchers, Spotted Flycatchers, Red-backed Shrike and Serins. The weather prevented any butterflies taking to the wing but we did record Hummingbird Hawk Moth.
Highlight of this trip was an encounter with three 'blackfish' which were either Pygmy Killer Whales or Melon-headed Whales. The animals were watched along the 3000 metres contour on the journey south, but the all-clinching head shape was not visible. This is however, a major sighting in the Bay of Biscay. Also 28 Fin Whales, 14 unidentified large rorquals, 1 Minke Whale, 4 Sperm Whales, 1 Cuvier's Beaked Whale, 2 probable Cuvier's beaked Whales, 30 Pilot Whale, 31 Bottle-nosed Dolphins, 5 Common Dolphins, 314 Striped Dolphins, 3 probable Risso's Dolphins, 11 Harbour Porpoise, 31 unidentified dolphins. Other marine life included 2 Ocean Sunfish and several Yellow-fin Tuna. Seabirds included a Black-throated Diver, 500 Great Shearwaters, 320 unidentified 'large' shearwaters, 4 Sooty Shearwaters, 10 Manx Shearwaters, 4 Sabine's Gulls, 1 Arctic Tern, 3 Black Terns and 5 Storm Petrels. Migrants recorded on or from the ship included an Osprey, Turtle Dove, Reed Warbler, Sand Martin, Swallow, Meadow Pipit and Hummingbird Hawk Moth. In Spain we recorded 3 Griffon Vultures, Peregrine, Black Redstart, Common Redstart, Sardinian, Fan-tailed and Melodious Warblers, Pied and Spotted Flycatchers, Cirl Buntings and several Red-backed Shrikes. Butterflies included Adonis Blue, Clouded Yellow, Geranium Bronze, Small Heath and Geranium Bronze.
29 Fin Whales, 12 unidentified large rorquals, 2 Sperm Whales, 5 Cuvier's Beaked Whales, 2 Minke Whales, 9 Pilot Whale, 40 Bottle-nosed Dolphins, 130 Common Dolphins, 200 Striped Dolphins, 64 Harbour Porpoise, 60 unidentified dolphins. Other marine life included 1 Ocean Sunfish and 2 unidentified Tuna. Seabirds included a spectacular total of 1,400+ Great Shearwaters, 1 Cory's Shearwater, 14 Sooty Shearwaters, 2 Manx Shearwaters, 1 Mediterranean Shearwater, 8 Great Skuas, 1 Arctic Skua, 3 Sabine's Gulls, 7 Common Terns and 1 Sandwich Tern. Migrants recorded on or from the ship included a Blackcap, 10 Swallows, a Silver Y and 2 Rush Veneers. In Spain we recorded Booted Eagles, Buzzard, Sparrowhawk, Peregrine, a juvenile Night Heron, Tree Pipit, Black Redstart, Whinchat, Whitethroat, Lesser Whitethroat, Cetti's and Melodious Warblers, Pied and Spotted Flycatchers and several Serins. 14 species of butterfly included Scarce Swallowtail, Long-tailed Blue, Adonis Blue, Clouded Yellow, Geranium Bronze, Mallow Skipper and Small Skipper. We also recorded 2 Praying Mantis, Wasp Spider, Horntail and 3 Wall Lizards.
4 Fin Whales, 16 unidentified large rorquals, 3 Sperm Whales, 3 Cuvier's Beaked Whales, 26 Pilot Whale, 12 Bottle-nosed Dolphins, 345 Common Dolphins, 235 Striped Dolphins, 15 Risso's Dolphins, 2 Harbour Porpoises, 20 unidentified dolphins. Other marine life included 5 Ocean Sunfish and 40+ Tuna sp.. Seabirds included 5 Little Shearwaters, 130 Great Shearwaters, 6 Cory's Shearwaters, 1 Sooty Shearwater, 2 Manx Shearwaters, 2 Mediterranean Shearwaters, 17 Great Skuas, 3 Pomarine Skuas, 4 Arctic Skuas, 9 Sabine's Gulls, 4 Common Terns, 3 Sandwich Terns and 1 Black Tern. In Spain we recorded 6 Griffon Vultures, 1 Booted Eagle, Tree Pipits, Black Redstarts, Whinchats, Whitethroats, Pied Flycatchers, Firecrest, 5 Red-backed Shrikes, 2 Serins and a migrant flock of 30 Starlings! Also Sardinian, Fan-tailed, Cetti's and Melodious Warblers. 17 species of butterfly included Clouded Yellow, Long-tailed Blue, Holly Blue, Geranium Bronze, Tree Grayling, Dingy Skipper and Mallow Skipper. Hummingbird Hawk Moth and Wall Lizard were also recorded.
26 Fin Whales, 19 unidentified large rorquals, 5 Sperm Whales, 3 Cuvier's Beaked Whales, 1 Pilot Whale, 130 Bottle-nosed Dolphins, 725 Common Dolphins, 485 Striped Dolphins, 3 Risso's Dolphins, 28 Harbour Porpoises, 2 unidentified dolphins, 1 unidentified beaked whale. Other marine life included 8 Ocean Sunfish and 50+ probable Yellow-fin Tuna. Seabirds were spectactular including 2,500+ Great Shearwaters, 60 Cory's Shearwaters, 5 Sooty Shearwaters, 25 Manx Shearwaters, 3 Mediterranean Shearwaters, 130 Storm Petrels, 40 Great Skuas, 3 Arctic Skuas, 4 Sabine's Gulls, 15 Fulmars, 40 Common Terns, 4 Black Terns. Migrants recorded on or from the ship included 3 Oystercatchers, 9 Curlews, 1 Yellow Wagtail, 1 Wheatear and 3 Clouded Yellow butterflies. In Spain we recorded 3 Griffon Vultures, 3 Booted Eagles, Honey Buzzard, Turtle Dove, Tawny Pipit, 2 Hoopoes, 6 Tree Pipits, 1 Redstart, 2 Whinchats, 4 Whitethroats, 2 Pied Flycatchers, 4 Spotted Flycatchers, 15 Red-backed Shrikes. We also recorded Dardinian, Fan-tailed, Cetti's and Melodious Warblers. 13 species of butterfly included Long-tailed Blue, Adonis Blue, Clouded Yellow, Geranium Bronze and Large Skipper. We also recorded Jersey Tiger Moth and Wasp Spider.
34 Fin Whales, 28 unidentified large rorquals, 1 Minke Whale, 2 Cuvier's Beaked Whales, 24 Pilot Whales, 60 Bottle-nosed Dolphins, 140 Common Dolphins, 130 Striped Dolphins, 112 Harbour Porpoises, 8 unidentified dolphins. Other marine life included 2 Ocean Sunfish and 5 unidentified tuna. Seabirds recorded from the ship included 208 Great Shearwaters, 62 Cory's Shearwaters, 1 Mediterranean Shearwater, 3 Sooty Shearwaters, 3 Manx Shearwaters, 115 Storm Petrels, 2 probable Gull-billed Terns, 22 Sabine's Gulls, 1 Pomarine Skua, 13 Great Skuas, 7 Arctic Skuas, 42 Common Terns, 2 Sandwich Terns, 60 'Commic' Terns, 2 Black Terns, 20 Fulmars and 4 Kittiwakes. Migrants recorded on or from the ship included female Marsh Harrier, 1 Ringed Plover, 12 Golden Plovers, 3 Turnstones, 10 Black-tailed Godwits. In Spain we recorded 3 Griffon Vultures, 1 Booted Eagle, 2 Peregrines, 1 Turtle Dove, 5 Tree Pipits, 1 Redstart and 2 Black Redstarts. We also recorded Sardinian, Cetti's and Melodious Warbler, 2 Whitethroats, 3 Pied Flycatchers, 6 Red-backed Shrikes, 10 Serins and 3 Cirl Buntings. Butterflies were thin on the ground due to the overcast conditions but included Clouded Yellow, Geranium Bronze, Wall Brown and Speckled Wood.
11 Fin Whales, 12 unidentified large rorquals, 1 Killer Whale, 1 probable Cuvier's beaked Whale, 250 Common Dolphin, 120 Striped Dolphins, 265 unidentified dolphins, 4 Harbour Porpoise, 3 Sunfish, 3 groups of Tuna sp. Seabirds included 30 Cory's Shearwaters, 80 Great Shearwaters, 4 Sooty Shearwaters, 3 Manx Shearwaters, 10 Storm Petrels, 19 Great Skuas, 1 Arctic Skua and 10 Sabine's Gulls. In Spain we recorded 10 Melodious Warblers, 12 Red-backed Shrikes, 3 Tree Pipits, 2 Sardinian Warblers, 3 Pied Flycatchers, 3 Whitethroats, 3 Black Redstarts, 1 Peregrine, 1 Nightingale, 5 Serins and 2 Cetti's Warblers. Wet weather meant there were few insects about but we recorded Meadow Brown, Jersey Tiger Moth and 2 Praying Mantis.
28 Fin Whales, 57 unidentified large rorqual 'blows' (i.e. animal not seen adequately to allow specific identification), 2 Minke Whales, 4 Sperm Whales, 10 Pilot Whales, a staggering 2000+ Common Dolphins, 285 Striped Dolphins, 3 Bottle-nosed Dolphins, 23 unidentified dolphins and 14 Harbour Porpoise. Other marine life included several Tuna sp. and 1 Ocean Sunfish. Seabirds included 1 Little Shearwater, 75 Cory's Shearwaters, 1 Great Shearwater, 4 Manx Shearwaters, 1 Mediterranean Shearwater, 10 Grey Phalaropes, 50+ Storm Petrels, 4 Sabine's Gulls, 1 Pomarine Skua, 4 Arctic Skuas, 11 Great Skuas, 5 Common Scoter and 4 Common Terns. Migrants on the ship included a Hummingbird Hawk Moth. Another truly excellent morning in Spain brought us Tawny Pipit, 8 Griffon Vultures, Booted Eagle, Honey Buzzard, Hobby, Peregrine, Black Redstart, Sardinian, Fan-tailed, Cetti's and Melodious Warblers, 10+ Red-backed Shrikes and several Serins. Highlights on the insect front were 19 species of butterfly - they included Wood White, Mallow Skipper, Small Skipper, Tree Grayling, Cleopatra, Clouded Yellow, and Geranium Bronze.
The highlight of this trip was a Sowerby's Beaked Whale which surfaced three times just off our starboard bow in the southern Bay. This is the first confirmed record for nearly a year - we encountered three animals on our 27 - 30 August 2005 trip. Sea conditions were far from perfect but we recorded 8 Fin Whales, 39 unidentified large rorquals, 1 Minke Whale, 4 Sperm Whales, 1 Cuvier's beaked Whale, 2 unidentified beaked Whales, 87 Common Dolphins, 3 unidentified dolphins and 8 Harbour Porpoise. Other marine life included several Tuna and 2 Basking Sharks. Seabirds were more in evidence with 132 Cory's Shearwaters, 28 Great Shearwaters, 60+ unidentified 'large' shearwaters, 10 Storm Petrels, 1 Sabine's Gull, 1 Arctic Skua and 3 Great Skuas. Migrants on or seen from the ship included 18 Bar-tailed Godwits and 1 Whimbrel. An excellent morning in Spain brought us Tawny Pipit, 49 Griffon Vultures, both Booted Eagle and Honey Buzzard, Sardinian, Fan-tailed, Cetti's and Melodious Warblers, 6+ Red-backed Shrikes and a Whitethroat. Highlights on the insect front were Mallow Skipper, tree Grayling, Cleopatra, Clouded Yellow, Geranium Bronze, Hummingbird Hawk Moth, Bloody-nosed Beetle and Wasp Spider. Wall Lizards and a Slow Worm were also seen.
18 Fin Whales, 31 unidentified large rorquals, 1 Sperm Whale, 3 unidentified Mesoplodons (breaching, but views could not identify the animals to species level although COW guide and beaked-whale expert Phil Coles hinted they could well have been True's beaked Whales!) 4 Pilot Whales, 38 Bottlenose Dolphins, 285 Common Dolphins, 5 Striped Dolphins, 50 unidentified dolphins and 2 Harbour Porpoise. Seabirds are still very thin on the ground but they included 1 Sabine's Gull, 1 Manx Shearwater, 2 Arctic Skuas, 8 Great Skuas and 2 Common Terns. In Spain highlight was a Subalpine Warbler and we also recorded 20+ Griffon Vultures, 4 Booted Eagles, Tree Pipit, Whitethroat, Kestrel, Common Buzzard, Red-Backed Shrikes and Sardinian, Cetti's and Melodious Warblers. Highlight on the insect front was a Southern Gatekeeper and we also recorded Hummingbird Hawk Moth.
16 Fin Whales, 23 unidentified large rorquals, 2 Cuvier's Beaked Whales, 8 Pilot Whales, 4 Risso's Dolphins, 15+ Bottlenose Dolphins, 120 Common Dolphins, 25 Striped Dolphins, 125 unidentified dolphins and 7 Harbour Porpoise. Seabirds included 1 Grey Phalarope, 8 Common Scoter, 3 Sooty Shearwaters, 1 Manx Shearwater, 1 Arctic Skua, 6 Great Skuas, 4 Kittiwakes and 10 Storm Petrels. In Spain highlights included 20 Griffon Vultures, Peregrine, Kestrel, Common Buzzard, Sparrowhawk, Red-Backed Shrikes, Sardinian, Fan-Tailed and Melodious Warblers, Serins, Black Redstart and Cirl Bunting. Fourteen species of butterfly included our first-ever site record of Tufted Marbled Skipper along with other notables like Tree Grayling, Clouded Yellow and Long-tailed Blue. we also recorded Hummingbird Hawk Moth and Jersey Tiger Moth.
3 Fin Whales, 1 unidentified large rorqual, 1 Minke Whale, 1 Sperm Whale, 50 White-sided Dolphins, 2 White-beaked Dolphins and 7 Harbour Porpoise. Seabirds included 1 adult Pomarine Skua, 3 Leach's Petrels (inc. one feeding right in front of us off our bow!), 400 Storm Petrels, 11 Sooty Shearwaters, 3 Manx Shearwaters and thousands Puffins, Gannets and Fulmars.
20 Fin Whales, 18 unidentified large rorquals, 1 possible Sei Whale, 1 Minke Whale, 2 Sperm Whales, 11 Cuvier's Beaked Whales, 4 unidentified beaked whales, 54 Bottlenose Dolphins, 36 Common Dolphins, 442 Striped Dolphins, 15 Pilot Whales and 45 Harbour Porpoise. Other marine life included 1 Basking Shark, 1 probable Tope Shark, 4 Ocean Sunfish and 6 unidentified Tuna. Seabirds included 1 Cory's Shearwater, 1 Great Shearwater, 1 Manx Shearwater, 4 Great Skuas, 2 Kittiwakes and 21 Storm Petrels. Migrants on or from the ship included 4 Whimbrel, 1 Ringed Plover, 2 Sanderling, 2 Wheatears and a Hummingbird Hawk Moth. In Spain highlights included 30 Griffon Vultures, 1 Peregrine, 4 Kestrel, 1 Common Buzzard, Raven, 4 Red-Backed Shrikes, 1 Grasshopper Warbler, 1 Nightingale, Sardinian Warbler, Fan-Tailed Warbler, Melodious Warbler, Serin, Black Redstart, Tree Pipit and Green Woodpecker. Butterflies included Swallowtail, Clouded Yellow, Pale Clouded Yellow, Cleopatra, Queen of Spain Fritillary, Holly Blue, Wall Brown and Speckled Wood. Other wildlife included 6 Hummingbird Hawk Moths, Jersey Tiger Moth, Mallow Moth, Wasp Spider, Funnel-webbed Spider and European Wall Lizard.
11 Fin Whales, 20 unidentified large rorquals, 2 Sperm Whales, 2 Minke Whales, 4 Cuvier's Beaked Whale, 4 Pilot Whales, 8 Risso's Dolphin, 100 Common Dolphins, 150 Striped Dolphins, 100 Bottle-nosed Dolphins and 25 Harbour Porpoise. Other marine life included 3 Ocean Sunfish and several groups of Tuna. Seabirds included with 1 Cory's Shearwater, 1 1 Sooty Shearwater, 2 Bonxies, 10 Storm Petrels, 2 Common Terns and 1 'Commic' Tern. Migrants at sea included 6 Turnstone, 1 Whimbrel and a Hummingbird Hawk Moth. In Spain we recorded Northern Wheatear. Melodious Warbler, Sardinian Warbler, Cetti 's Warbler, Red-backed Shrike, Spotted Flycatcher and Serin. Insects included Jersey Tiger Moth, Cleopatra and Speckled Wood.
28 Fin Whales, 14 unidentified large rorquals, 5 Sperm Whales, 1 probable Cuvier's Beaked Whale, 3 Pilot Whales, 1 Risso's Dolphin, 20 Common Dolphins, 175 Striped Dolphins, 50 Bottle-nosed Dolphins, 100 unidentified dolphins and 14 Harbour Porpoise. Other marine life included an Ocean Sunfish. Seabirds have certainly picked up with 3 Great Shearwaters, 2 Cory's shearwaters, 1 Mediterranean Shearwater, 1 Manx Shearwater, 4 Bonxies, 3 Pomarine Skuas, 1 Sabine's Gull, 2 Mediterranean Gulls and 12 Storm Petrels recorded. Migrants at sea included 24 Golden Plover and 12 Dunlin. In Spain we recorded 7 Griffon Vultures, 7 Black Kites, Cuckoo, Grasshopper Warbler, Melodious Warbler, Sardinian Warbler, Red-backed Shrikes, Wall Lizard and Grass Snake.
The Fin Whales are back! We recorded a total of 18 plus 10 unidentified large rorquals. Also 10 Sperm Whales, 6 Cuvier's Beaked Whales, 2 unidentified beaked whales, 2 unidentified distant breaching mesoplodons, 3 Minke Whales, 105 Pilot Whales (inc. 40 off the Brittany coast), 805 Common Dolphins, 305 Striped Dolphins, 51 Bottle-nosed Dolphins, 50 unidentified dolphins, 29 Harbour Porpoise. Other marine life included 1 Basking Shark, 3 unidentified sharks and 2 Ocean Sunfish. Seabirds are still pretty much non-existent due to the calm weather but we recorded 6 Storm Petrels and 1 Common Tern. Migrants at sea included a Common Sandpiper. In Spain we recorded two family parties of Red-backed Shrikes (one of which was feeding its offspring with a Slow Worm!) plus Sardinian, Cetti's, Fan-tailed and Melodious Warblers. Butterflies included Scarce Swallowtail, Marbled White and Clouded Yellow.
2 Fin Whales, 2 Sperm Whales, 9 Cuvier's Beaked Whales, 53 Common Dolphins, 30 Striped Dolphins, 55 unidentified dolphins, 3 Harbour Porpoise. Other marine life included 1 Ocean Sunfish. Seabirds included 6 Cory's Shearwaters and 1 Great Shearwater. Migrants at sea included 5 Whimbrel. In Spain we recorded 2 Red-backed Shrikes, Peregrine, Sardinian, Fan-tailed and Melodious Warblers and Serins. Butterflies included Clouded Yellow, Wall Brown and Marbled Whites and we also recorded Hummingbird Hawk Moth.
1 Fin Whale, 4 Sperm Whales, 5 Cuvier's Beaked Whales, 4 Pilot Whales, 1790 Common Dolphins, 100 Striped Dolphins, 8 Bottle-nosed Dolphins, 50 unidentified dolphins, 25 Harbour Porpoise. Other marine life included 1 unidentified shark, 3 Ocean Sunfish, 50+ unidentified Tuna. Seabirds sighted from the boat included 17 Fulmar, 9 Storm Petrel, 2 Sandwich Tern and 1 Common Tern. Migrants at sae included 5 Swifts, 1 Oystercatcher, 2 Whimbrel, 1 Curlew and 2 Silver Y moths. In Spain we recorded Sparrowhawk, Sardinian, Fan-tailed and Melodious Warblers, Serin and Cirl Buntings. Butterflies included Swallowtail, Small Copper, Marbled White and Clouded Yellow.
7 Sperm Whales, 2 Cuvier's Beaked Whales, 15 Pilot Whales, 2 unidentified large rorquals, 915 Common Dolphins, 545 Striped Dolphins, 12 Bottle-nosed Dolphins, 275 unidentified dolphins, 2 Ocean Sunfish and 200+ Yellow-fin Tuna. Seabirds recorded from the boat included 2 Fulmar and 20+ Storm Petrel. Migrants at sea included 8 Dunlin, 1 Collared Dove, 10 Swifts and 2 Silver Y moths. In Spain we recorded Osprey, Tree Pipits, Black Redstarts, Sardinian, Fan-tailed and Melodious Warblers and lots of Serins. Butterflies included Swallowtail, Scarce Swallowtail, Cleopatra, Long-tailled Blue, Marbled White and Mallow Skipper. Other wildlife included Oak Eggar moth, 2 Hummingbird Hawk moths and 2 Wall Lizards.
Undoubted highlight on our summer solstice trip were 4 False Killer Whales and 2 Orcas! We also recorded 4 Fin Whales, 3 Sperm Whales, 2 Minke Whales, 1 probable Cuvier's Beaked Whale, 35 Pilot Whales, 150 Bottle-nosed Dolphins, a staggering 3000+ Common Dolphins, 264 Striped Dolphins, 19 Harbour Porpoise and 6 Basking Sharks. Seabirds included 2 Little Shearwaters, 1 Mediterranean Shearwater, 2 Manx Shearwaters and 15 Storm Petrels. In Spain we recorded a good selection of birds including male Hen Harrier, Peregrine, Red-backed Shrike, Wryneck, Melodious Warbler and Fan-tailed Warbler.
June 4, 2006
After Mike presented his morning talk on the wildlife of the Bay of Biscay and the Picos de Europa, we were all itching to get up on deck and see what we could find. The sky was clear and the sea was millpond flat, with barely a ripple disturbing the surface: perfect cetacean-spotting conditions. We had only been up on the exclusive Monkey Island platform for a few minutes when the fins of a large shark broke the surface a couple of times.
A few minutes later we saw our first Harbour Porpoises of the trip. This area of the southern English Channel, off the coast of Ouessant has a good population of this small cetacean - but you need flat conditions to pick them up, as they barely break the surface. We logged eight, including a couple which 'rooster-tailed' at speed away from the ship. The flat water was very good for picking up Storm Petrels, and we recorded at least 35 of these tiny seabirds. Other birds were also easy to see on the surface, and small groups of Lesser Black-backed Gulls sitting on the water often had associated Ocean Sunfish - sometimes with the gulls pecking at their flanks. We logged a total of seven of these weird fish.
After an hour on deck, a bright glint in the distance put some of us onto a rolling Minke Whale, and half an hour later another Minke broke the surface a few times before carrying out a typical frustrating disappearing act. Soon after this sighting, a Basking Shark drifted right into our course, giving great views at the bow of its shape under the water. As we headed further south, the water became slightly more choppy but conditions were still superb. At about 3pm we saw our first Bottlenosed Dolphins - a group of 16 including at least one calf.
An hour and a half later, and now over the shelf break, we saw our first three Pilot Whales. Within half an hour, some distant splashing drew our attention, eventually, as we approached turning out to be a family group of six Pilot Whales, surging through the in a surprisingly active way (for this usually slow-moving species, by day). The area of the shelf break is almost always the most productive of the southward trip. Today was no exception. Over the next couple of hours we encountered a few further Bottlenosed Dolphins, a typically acrobatic group of 40 Striped Dolphins and about 50 Common Dolphins coming to the bow.
Our day's totals were Minke Whale: 2; Bottlenosed Dolphin: 27; Common Dolphin: 77; Striped Dolphin: 45; Pilot Whale: 9; Harbour Porpoise: 8; Unidentified dolphin: 47. Birds included one Mediterranean Shearwater, two Kittiwakes and one Great Skua. A pair of Collared Doves rested on the ship.
June 5, 2006
The theme of glorious sunshine and clear skies set on the previous day at sea continued throughout our time in mainland Spain. It was this brilliant weather which accompanied our drive from Bilbao to the Picos National Park. Highlights of the journey included dozens of Black Kites and a group of three White Storks. A coffee break brought us great views of Buzzard on overhead wires and a couple of Spotless Starlings.
Half-way through the spectacular Hermida Gorge, we stopped at the viewpoint with the leaping salmon statue. Here we got our first good views of nesting Crag Martins and soaring Griffon Vultures, plus a few Spotted Flycatchers. We picked up a couple of Blue Rock Thrushes on the high peaks, while the river below produced Beautiful Demoiselles and black-bellied Dippers, including at least one juvenile bird.
And so onto the brilliant Parador at the spectacular setting of Fuente De. After a relaxing lunch, we headed off to enjoy the sun on the way to the hill-hugging village of Brez, taking several stops en route. Typically, at every stop raptors drift by, and we soon had great views of a Honey Buzzard and a high Short-toed Eagle passing overhead, while at ground level we had a couple of male Red-backed Shrikes and Stonechats. Other stops brought Serin, Redstart, Black Redstart and another Honey Buzzard which, having had the audacity to land in a tree, was attacked from both sides by the resident Buzzards which saw it on its way.
Another male Red-backed Shrike gave brilliant views near the village, taking advantage of recently mown meadows to catch plentiful large insects. The uncut meadows were bursting with many species of butterflies including Marbled White, Provençal Fritillary and Marsh Fritillary.
June 6, 2006
When the weather is good, there is no better place to go than the high plateau above Fuente De, and so it proved again, today. There was not a cloud in the sky when we got in the first cable car of the morning and raced up 1,000m to the higher ground. Indeed it was so warm that there was surprisingly little birdlife on show. Water Pipits, Black Redstarts and Wheatears weren't put off singing, though, and we got great telescope views of six Chamois enjoying the cool of a patch of remnant snow. The slightest pause brought Alpine Choughs down to see if any food was on offer.
The high-altitude flowers were in great bloom, with Alpine Toadflax, Trumpet Gentian among the many starring plants which invited photography. As we settled for our lunch, under any shade a boulder could provide, there was not a whisper of most of the star species of the high Picos. But after a refreshing drink and feast, our patience was rewarded with a pair of Alpine Accentors hopping out from boulders onto the snow in front of us. Not content with feeding they perfomed an intricate wing-flicking display and mated at least twice. As we were watching this fantastic performance a query of 'What's that bird?" referring to a small bird perching on a large boulder just behind us, was replied with "Wallcreeper! Male!" This bird flew around us and showed brilliantly in flight (when they are at their butterfly-best, in my opinion) on several boulders.
The slow walk back brought a distant view of our first Snowfinch. However, three more gave excellent close views near the pond full of Alpine Newts. This pond was also home to Broad-bodied Chaser dragonflies and the edge had several Small Blue butterflies drinking from the wet mud. Midwife Toads sheltered under some of the boulders, including males carrying eggs.
The last part of the long and rewarding afternoon was spent enjoying the abundant insects on the lower slopes and meadows near the Parador. The Viper's Bugloss proved incredibly attractive, bringing scores of Hummingbird Hawkmoths, a couple of Narrow-bordered Bee Hawkmoths and a plethora of butterflies, such as Queen of Spain Fritillary, Pearl-bordered Fritillary, Marsh Fritillary, Swallowtail and Black-veined White.
A bat-listen (using a bat-detector) late at night revealed at least three species enjoying the moths near the Parador and around the lights of the cable car area.
June 7, 2006
Our last full day in the Picos saw us heading back down to the Hermida Gorge and the small village of Lebeña. The road route down there provided an early thrill with a Black Woodpecker flying near both buses and being seen by lucky people in each.
The track above Lebeña village was typically alive with butterflies, including Pearly Heath, Duke of Burgundy, Adonis Blue, Clouded Yellow, Scarce Swallowtail and Wood White, and the air jangled with the songs of Serins and Redstarts. Red Helleborines were in bloom by the path. The highlight of our walk was a thermal beside a steep rock face, bearing a single Black Vulture with several Griffon Vultures, a couple of Egyptian Vultures and a pale-morph Booted Eagle. Above them, half-a-dozen Alpine Swifts joined the Swift throng. Near where we parked, patience brought us good views of a singing Western Bonelli's Warbler, one of about five we had heard in the area.
A the nearby church of Santa Maria, we watched as more than 100 Griffon Vultures passed slowly overhead, and an adult Egyptian Vulture came almost down to eye-level. After lunch, we took the winding road to Cabañes. On the way we found Marbled Fritillary and at the picnic an area surrounded by pollarded Sweet Chestnuts, we found a few Redstarts and a pair of Wrynecks. One bird obliged us with brilliant views as it looked from its nesthole. Also there, three Short-toed Eagles came very low and a Tree Pipit crossed overhead.
The evening was again spent enjoying the spectacular insects and flowers at Fuente De.
June 8, 2006
Our journey back to Bilbao and the ferry northward was punctuated just outside Fuente De with a quick pause to admire a stand of Lizard Orchids. The drive to Bilbao brought a few more Dippers in the Hermida Gorge, a male Hen Harrier in the lowlands, Egyptian Vulture, and a singing Melodious Warbler at our fuel-stop.
The sea was a bit choppier on our northward journey than our southbound leg, making cetacean watching tough. The wind was catching waves and blows alike, and of four large rorqual blows we recorded in the afternoon, we could only confirm one definite Fin Whale. The first three blows were soon followed by an Ocean Sunfish, then our first dolphins of the day. We had a distant group of about 50 but couldn't confirm their identity.
Two hours later, a mixed gorup of Common (5), Striped (20) and Bottlenosed (3) Dolphins passed the bow. As we passed over the southern edge of the shelf break groups of Common Dolphin came to the bow.
Our day's totals were Fin Whale: 1; Unidentified large rorqual: 3; Bottlenosed Dolphin: 3; Common Dolphin: 103; Striped Dolphin: 20; Unidentified dolphin: 53. Birds included a Spoonbill off the northern Spanish coast and in the Bay, a fly-by Merlin, a Cory's Shearwater, a Manx Shearwater and three Mediterranean Shearwaters.
June 9, 2006
The conditions were too choppy today to give us a chance of cetaceans. But we still enjoyed a few Fulmars and several Gannets - a laid-back end to a wonderful holiday, with wonderful wildlife and wonderful company. Thanks very much to everyone for a fantastic trip.
May 1, 2006
Our first trip of the year has again set high standards for the trips to follow, both in what we saw and in the fun and laughter the group had. We all (twelve in total) met promptly on the afternoon of May 1, and soon got to know each other over a glass of fine wine or two and a meal on-board the Pride of Bilbao - which was remarkably quiet despite the bank holiday. Hopes were high for glorious wildlife to come both on the Bay of Biscay and in the Picos de Europa.
May 2, 2006
After Hugh's morning slide-show and talk on the wildlife of Biscay and the Picos, we headed up for a day of whale- and dolphin-watching. As sometimes happens at this time of year, an annoying crosswind prevented us from heading up to the Monkey Island area. So, we were left watching from the lower outer decks, which we just about had to ourselves. Though the conditions started a little bit choppy, the visibility was by no means poor. However, it was a while before we picked up our first cetaceans - a group of half-a-dozen or so Common Dolphins breaching on the port side. It was some time longer still, when our patient scanning was rewarded again by a family group of about six Pilot Whales, which were frustratingly low in the water and difficult to locate. As we approached the shelf break at the end of a long day, a few more Common Dolphins (up to 20 were seen) passed close to the ship. Though far from a classic Biscay whale-watching day, this leg of the trip whetted the appetite for the return trip, which greatly exceeded expectations (see below!). Birds on this southward leg included four Manx Shearwaters, a Guillemot and five Fulmars, plus a couple of Collared Doves, which rested briefly on the ship. We also recorded three Ocean Sunfish.
May 3, 2006
The second morning on the Pride of Bilbao is always an early one, as we dock at 7am. Today was no exception, but we were all raring to go on our adventure to the mountains. We were soon on our way in our delivered minibuses en route for the Picos De Europa National Park. During the journey we saw Black Kites and Buzzards and a couple of Dippers among the rapids within the magnificent gorge of La Hermida. Our first stop was deep in the gorge at the 'mirador' with a leaping salmon statue. Soon we were becoming experts in Crag Martin ID as they buzzed around and visited their nest-sites. Western Bonelli's Warblers trilled and Firecrests were singing loudly and Iberian Chiffchaffs less boldly. A couple of Griffon Vultures were picked out and scoped perched on the highest points of the gorge, and a Blue Rock Thrush obligingly played the same game. And so to the wonderful Parador, set in the spectacular amphitheatre at Fuente De, where, after marvelling at the view, we had a welcome lunch and once more hit the road to go birding. Our post-lunch destination was the small pretty village of Brez. Our primary goal was Middle Spotted Woodpecker, and we heard a bird in a favoured spot, but it refused to show itself. However, on the way we had extremely good views of singing Serin, Firecrest and Wryneck - a bird which we had no difficulty finding on any of our days in the Picos, plus the odd Cirl Bunting. Near the woodpecker site, we watched a brilliant Red-backed Shrike posing on a wire. Our timing was perfect for a magnificent bloom of Pink Butterfly Orchids in the meadows by the road, while Early Purple Orchids were in similar, though less abundant spectacle by the roadsides. Not to be defeated by the non-showing Middle Spotted Woodpecker, we went to another locality, near Llaves, where our busy day was completed with excellent close views of a mewing and chattering bird and its mate.
May 4, 2006
Pre-breakfast we split for a choice of destination: some of us headed back to the Middle Spotted Woodpecker site for more close-up viewing, plus a bonus Red Squirrel, and some took a leisurely stroll around the area near the Parador. The highlights for the latter group was a buck Roe Deer, plus the regular morning ritual of watching Nuthatches, White Wagtails, Chaffinches and Jays feast on the moths fatefully drawn to the Parador's outer lights. It is always best to head up to the high Alpine terrain 1,000m above the Parador at the first opportunity. So, after breakfast, we duly paid our respects to the Firecrests by the cable-car stairway and filled the first car of the morning and shot up to the mind-blowing terrain of the high plateau. There was still a bit of low cloud, but this just added to the other-worldy atmosphere of this brilliant place. The diversity of birds is low at this high altitude, but every species is a tough specialist. First to show was a Water Pipit in peachy spring plumage - several of these birds were singing beside our pathway route. We also enjoyed our first from-above views of a Griffon Vulture rising up the cliff-face in super-slow-mo. We usually find a few Chamois in this area, but they are mainly very distant and extremely shy. Today, though, they were grazing in decent herds of 20 or more animals and were bold enough to continue picking grass from between the jagged limestone rock-walls just above our heads - in brief: brilliant views. As we were enjoying the Chamois, one of several vultures came drifting by. But this one seemed to be flying slightly differently. Sure enough, we lifted our binoculars to find ourselves level with a Black Vulture heading slowly past - a welcome return to the area of a bird we didn't encounter on our 2005 trips (though we saw two together in 2004). Wheatears and Black Redstarts sang and flitted among the rocks and we had several encounters with Alpine Accentors, including three very close to the cable-car area. A Snow Vole gave very brief views as it dashed between boulders. Alpine Choughs showed their usual radar for an easy snack and despite the low cloud closing in, soon found us lunching and came and joined in! Finally, though the cloud and rain became too much, and forced the section of our party who were enjoying watching the local Alpine Newts to the shelter of the café at the cable-car. Having descended to the warmth of the land below, and a couple of Rock Buntings next to the cable-car station, we used our local knowledge of the localised weather systems, and headed from the rain of Fuente De to the rapidly-drying peaks surrounding the church of St Maria at Lebeña. As the rain stopped, thermals started appearing, each one seeming to attract Griffon Vultures appearing as if from nowhere, gathering, drifting and passing between peaks. Egyptian Vultures joined them, plus the odd passing Black Kite, Buzzard, and a tantalising Booted Eagle. More and raptors joined in, with Kestrels and Sparrowhawks joining the throng. You really could spend all day enjoying the moving raptors in this brilliant place.
May 5, 2006
Our pre-breakfast morning today took us up the track into the woods above the Parador. Almost the first bird we heard was a Black Woodpecker, and the tension mounted as it appeared to be getting closer to us - then closer, until in an instant there it was, flying crow-sized and spectacular over our heads. After breakfast, our main aims for the day were to head back to Lebeña and the areas near there to look for more birds of prey and whatever else we could find. Our first destination was the road to Cabañes. The conifers on the route brought Crested Tit and, while we watched it, the first of half-a-dozen Short-toed Eagles we saw that day, drifted by. Further stops brought us Cirl Bunting, a pair of Red-backed Shrikes, the sound of calling Middle Spotted and Iberian Green Woodpeckers and a gathering and landing of Griffon Vultures, surely to a dead animal on the hill just above us. The picnic area on the route up the hill was alive with birds. A Tree Pipit sang, about six Alpine Swifts joined the multitude of Swifts, and more and more Griffons passed low over our heads. Two pairs of Wrynecks seemed to be vying for territory among the ancient pollarded Sweet Chestnuts, while a pair of Redstarts tried to keep the Wrynecks always from the nest-hole. Back down at Lebeña, we paid our respects to the giant, water-trough-inhabiting Western Spadefoot Toad tadpoles, then walked slowly up the gentle hill, enjoying Redstarts and Serins on the way. An Egyptian Vulture carried food in its bill across the valley, visible to the lower majority of our party, frustratingly just at the moment when those higher up the slope had views of an adult Lammergeier heading round the hill and up the valley. Lammergeiers are extremely rare visitors to the Picos with the odd-bird wandering west from the Pyrenees. Later, we retuned to the church at Lebeña and gloried in the parade of birds of prey at this site. Short-toed Eagles included three flying together, and later a pair in display flight - sounding more like gulls than eagles! Griffon Vultures dominated as usual, with Peregrine adding to the ever-growing raptor count. Just as we were to call it a day and head off to buy our souvenirs in the town of Potes, a Golden Eagle joined a rising 'kettle' of Griffons, heading higher into the clouds - a fantastic finale.
May 6, 2006
An early start took us in good time back to the ferry port at Santurtzi and we were once more set for a day's whale-watching. Shaking visions of mountains and vultures from our minds, we were straight up onto the Monkey Island for our group's first taste of the brilliant view it provides over the bows of the ship and forward. Conditions were very good - certainly much better than the route down. As usual for this part of the trip, the first cetacean sighting came close to the shore. They were Bottle-nosed Dolphins, a group of 20 or so, including young animals, with a few breaching very close to the bow. The whole group then went into serious leaping mode, playing in the wake of the ship. That group of dolphins proved the first sighting in a very productive day. The deep canyon waters brought us a logging Sperm Whale which 'fluked' as it was level with the ship, drawing cheers even from those not using binoculars. The trip brought a total of more than 170 Common Dolphins, the majority of which came in typical fashion, straight past the bow of the ship (where we on the Monkey Island always get the best views!). One party of Striped Dolphins also came to the bow, though in a total of more than 400 Stripeys seen, most were in groups further away, ignoring the ship. Many indulged in the spectacular breaching so beloved of this most playful of dolphin species. The other story of the day was the number of Fin Whales seen, some of which gave brilliant views. We recorded 18, plus had one distant, unidentified blow from a large rorqual. Surely, this promises another bumper season in Biscay for this second largest of all the animals on earth. Birds seen included a Mediterranean Shearwater and the macabre scene of 20 or more storm petrels feeding on and around a dead cetacean and its associated oil slick.
May 7, 2006
Our last day brought very calm sea conditions as we headed across the channel. Indeed, they were calm enough that it was easy to pick out distant Guillemots swimming (we recorded about 20). The five or so Manx Shearwaters had to rely on flapping rather than riding the side of waves to get about. Other birds included eight passing Swallows, two Collared Doves, about ten storm petrels and six Great Skuas. The only cetaceans we recorded were five Harbour Porpoises, bringing a seventh cetacean species to our total trip list, at the end of a fantastic holiday.